As far as Drywall service & repair goes our # 1 goal is customer satisfaction and guaranteed excellent quality finished product. Our drywall experts are very skilled and pay high attention to detail. Drywall & Taping services / patch and repair & fire and flood restoration are no problem. Texturing services, sub-floor installation,  Acoustic ceiling installation, ceiling panels and installing hangers / t-bar services also available. Fire and flood restoration in Edmonton and surrounding area. 
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Drywall Materials :
Picking gypsum might seem as simple as going to the lumber yard with a truck and saying to the owner to load it with however many number of sheets. But it is not that simple. First you must figure out what the wall (or ceiling)  is to be used for. Is it a standard interior wall or exterior wall, then 1/2-in thick drywall will do. If the wall is next to a fire hazard (sometimes a fire wall would be separated from an attached garage or in townhouses it separates the two houses allowing a 2 hour burn time between walls , you will want (or required by the local inspector) to go with 5/8-inch sheet rock. This acts as an aid to keep fire from spreading quickly, in the event of such a fire.  Dens glass is used on exteriors also aqua board in bathrooms. Cement board, dens-glass and aqua board are very important to be used in the right situation.
Ceiling board is also great for long lasting ceiling life and much higher quality guaranteeing against future cracking.
Sheetrock usually comes in 4X8-foot sheets & 4x10 sheets but also can come in 4X12 sheets as well as 4x14. It is best stored lying flat on a dry even surface. When a wall is to be positioned next to a sink, or might take a few splashes, as near a toilet, there is a special type of drywall that is water resistant & mold resistant. It is usually colored green and it is called by most builders, "aqua board". The paper is resistant to water and it keeps the gypsum between the layers of paper from disintegrating. Yet, this type of wallboard has been found by some builders to be insufficient for use in showers and tubs, where water can leak through the grout and be trapped next to the aqua board for long periods. For these cases look for drywall that is 100% waterproof, or you might even consider a cement product often called "cement board" and or "Hardibacker".
All drywall is fireproof to a certain degree. Known as Fireboard.  However, various local codes may require greater fireproofing as between a house and attached garage, or between apartments.
Multiple layers, thicker drywall, or special types of fire-resistant drywall called type x or type c may be used.
When determining the amount of wallboard necessary to do the job, factor in that, unless your room is perfectly square, without entrances, exits, windows and closets, as well as outlets and lights, and that these dimensions are evenly divisible by 48 inches, you will need to cut the gyp board sheets. This cutting is going to lead to waste. So the square foot of drywall needed, will be much closer to the length times width of the wall than it will be by the actual space covered. Don't count on being able to efficiently use scraps unless, you have some very big openings in the wall. To be safe and avoid multiple runs to the supplier, it is best to figure your room dimensions, calculate the square footage of surface area without taking into account the openings and then add an extra sheet just for waste.
To hang the board we use collated screws. There are standard sheet rock screws that are made to specific lengths. If you are putting up drywall sheets in a place that may get wet, be certain to get screws or fasteners that will not deteriorate in the presence of water. The number of screws will of course vary by the amount of drywall board to be hung. Generally, you can figure approximately one pound of screws for every five 4X8 sheets. Drywall corner beads will be necessary for every protruding angle. Beads are a very light angled metal that forms an "L" shape. You will need approximately the same number of linear feet of this product as you have linear feet of protruding corners.
A sheetrock job is not complete without the taping & muding. This, you can get in many different forms. You can get it in a bag, where it must be mixed. You can also get it premixed, which is really the way that a beginner should go. The drywall mud is inexpensive in either form and a 18 litre bucket will cover a good sized area, even used liberally. The type of mud, should also match the type of sheetrock used. All pourpose mud will work in most circumstances, and the average do-it-yourselfer will not want a mud that is too quick-drying. How much of this you will need will depend on your experience level and the number of board joints. An efficient drywaller needs about 18 litres for every 1000 square feet of drywall. Drywall tape is also a necessity. This is not a sticky substance. It is really just a roll of thick paper. It is used to link the drywall boards together and allow a smooth coat to be applied on over the top. These tapes are about two inches wide and are either made of paper or a plastic mesh. The plastic is stronger, but harder to work with. A 250 foot roll will probably go for about 16 sheets of drywall, but it will definitely vary depending on the number of openings and seams.

Drywall Tools 
The most common tools necessary for drywalling a room are, for the most part, pretty standard. You most likley have most of what you need lying around your garage or perhaps just stored away in your garage or tool shed. For cutting plaster board, you need only two items, a exacto knife, a keyhole saw & a tape measure. The exacto knife should be sharp.  The keyhole saw should be short and sturdy. An experienced gypsum installer can even jam it through sheetrock without drilling a hole. 
​Depending on if you are nailing or screwing your sheet rock sheets, you will need a hammer or a drywall screw gun.
For mudding & taping the walls, you will want to have a trowel and joint-knives of various sizes ( a 4" knife and a 6" knife are most common), a corner trowel is handy, but not absolutely necessary.  For the final step, sanding, a special type of paper is best.  You may choose an electric sander or sand by hand.  If you have put the mud on properly, sanding should not be too difficult even by hand. Just for safety's sake, you should wear goggles and a hardhat while doing drywall. Work gloves are also handy to have when handling large sheets of wallboard.

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​Drywall patch and repair

Whether due to the routine settlement of a house, the movement of furniture, a random nail-pop, patch and repair or just a plain old temper tantrum (we can pretend they don’t happen, but they do), sooner or later your walls may need a little TLC and Sheetrock repair.  During Reconstruction Doorknobs are a common enemy of drywall tapers, causing dents and small holes. Children can be toxic to drywall finishing as well – such as when the interior of a home is mistaken for a baseball stadium or a demolition derby.
Many things can cause damage to finish sanded drywall, and not all of them are under our control.
But don’t panic. One of the great perks of wallboard is the ease with which it can be repaired. With just a few materials and tools, you can have that banged-up 
wall looking as good as new.

Drywall Prep :
The first thing to do is to figure out how much drywall is being replaced or used. Are you just patching a hole or replacing an entire room of wall board?
Next you must figure out will there be inside corner angles to mud and tape? Will you be installing the ceilings? Now that you have established what project you are undertaken let us get started. The first thing you will need to do is figure out how much material you are going to need to finish the project. I usually just measure the floor dimensions to get the total sq footage of the ceiling and then measure out all of the walls and make a list of different sized gypsum board we must order 8",10",12", or 14 foot sheets.
Now that you have figured out how much gypsum you will need you must now figure out what kind of drywall you should use.  ½” board is generally not 
recommended for bathrooms unless it is “green board”. Mold resistant board is great for bathrooms and highly recommended.
You should make another list of all the materials you will need to purchase. This includes  screws, drywall tape, mud and your various boarding tools like t-square and drywall gun. 
This list will make life easy when you are at a local hardware or home improvement store trying to remember what you need.
Remember when doing demolition to always be aware of your surroundings and be especially careful around electrical outlets.
Make sure to get rid of all old walls and cut back everything square and prep for the gypsum installation.   Make sure the walls are clear of nails, screws and staples.
Remember to pick up anything that could interfere with the board sitting against wall or you from installing it. 
You are now ready to start installing. To lighten mood after all of your hard work we would like to 
leave you with a drywall joke.

For a laugh- What did the man say to the wall? One more crack out of you and I will plaster you.

Drywall taping and finishing
Taping  and muding is the first step in the finishing process, and the first real challenge you will face after hanging your board.
There is some real skill involved in successfully taping plastering, and patience is going to pay off. The entire taping and muding finishing process will not happen in a 
single day. It is best covered over 4-5 days in small steps that allow for dry time and multiple coats of mud & sanding.
You will find that you have a couple of choices when taping and finishing, 2 types of tape are available either as a plain paper tape or as a mesh fiberglass tape. I personally recommend doing all finishing and taping work with paper tape to ensure a better quality finish.
Paper tape does not have an adhesive backing and requires plaster mud to bond it to the joints. Fiberglass tape has an adhesive backing, making it easier for most do-it-yourselfers and quick easy fixes.
I’ll tell you why I do this. Fiberglass tape is perfect for typical joints.  It adheres to the wall without joint compound.  It is easier to use on straight joints.  It is more effective at preventing plaster board cracks.
For more difficult joints such as inside corners and wall/ceiling joints, I use the paper tape because the paper is easier to fold and conform to a nice, tight corner.
First, the tools you’ll need to tape drywall:
Drywall Tape (both fiberglass mesh and plain paper)
4” Drywall Knife Drywall Mudding Compound (premixed and just slightly thinned out) use a half inch drill and a mixing paddle. About 5 cups of water added to a 18Litre box of mud will make it way easier to work with. Just dont mix the mud to runny or it will be all over the place.
Utility Knife
The first step necessary to successfully tape drywall is prep. You want to make sure you’ve taken care of all the necessary steps up to the point before you begin, and ensure that you have all of the tools and equipment you’ll need before you start.
If you have outside corners, you should have corner bead installed by this point. 
Ensure that all of your plaster board screws and fasteners are driven below the surface of the drywall. You can check this by running a drywall knife across the surface of the drywall and listening for anything that catches on the edge of the knife.
Tape Drywall Joints
For most straight joints, I recommend the mesh tape, which is highly effective and self-adhesive, making it easier for amateurs to use.
Cut the tape to length and run the tape down the seam, taking special care to center the tape over the middle of the seam. Most gypsum seams have tapered edges, creating a low spot at the joint called the bevel. The tape should fit easily into this bevel.
You will want to cut the tape about 1/2”-1” short of the corners, to leave room for your corner tape. You do not want to overlap tape with other tape because this 
creates a slightly raised area that is more difficult to hide later during the mudding step.
Once you’ve placed your drywall tape on the seam and have it centered, run your 4” drywall knife along the entire length, pressing the tape firmly against the joint to bond the tape to the sheetrock like a big long sticker.

Tape Drywall Corners
For the second part of this, I heartily recommend paper drywall tape. This is a plain paper, non-adhesive tape that requires drywall compound to adhere it to the wall.
The reason for this is that paper tape is much easier to fold to conform to a corner than fiberglass tape, which often does not adhere well in a corner nor give a 
crisp edge.
Begin this step by measuring and cutting your paper tape to length. 
Second, fold your precut piece of drywall tape in half all the way along its length.
Now that your tape is ready, apply a “bed” of mud to the corner. Hold your plaster board knife at approximately a seventy degree angle as you apply the mud. 
Now press your pre-cut piece of paper tape firmly into the corner with your taping knife, holding you knife at approximately a forty-five degree angle. 
Some gypsum finishing mud will be pressed out from beneath the tape and this is normal. You want to snug this tape firmly into the corner and make sure to not have any air bubbles or it will cause major problems later down the road.
Your final step for the paper tape is to remove (with your drywall knife) any excess compound mud that has accumulated on the edges of the tape. 
You want to begin your wallboard mudding process with as even a surface as possible, as this will mean less sanding.

For more information about taping and finishing please fell free to contact us @ 780-451-2870

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